Long before it became a fixture in modern skincare marketing, frankincense was one of the most valuable substances in the ancient world, traded across the same trade routes that connected Arabia, East Africa, and the wider region for thousands of years. Its return to relevance in skincare isn't a trend so much as a rediscovery of something people understood intuitively long before the science caught up to explain why it worked.
What Frankincense Actually Is
Frankincense is a resin harvested from Boswellia trees, native to regions across the Arabian Peninsula, East Africa, and parts of India. The resin is collected by making small incisions in the tree's bark and allowing the sap to harden into resin droplets called "tears," which are then processed into oil or used directly in various preparations.
Why It Matters for Skin
Frankincense contains boswellic acids, compounds studied for their anti-inflammatory properties, along with other constituents that contribute to its role in traditional and modern skincare alike.
Anti-inflammatory support. Chronic low-grade inflammation is now understood to be a major driver of visible skin aging, contributing to breakdown of collagen and elastin over time. Frankincense's anti-inflammatory compounds help calm this process, which is part of why it's associated with a more even, calm-looking complexion over consistent use.
Antioxidant activity. Frankincense contains compounds that help neutralize free radicals, unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and general environmental stress, all of which are relevant concerns for skin in a climate like the UAE's.
Astringent properties. Traditionally, frankincense has been used to help tone skin and support a more refined appearance to pores and texture, likely related to its mild astringent qualities.
Wound and scar support. Historical use of frankincense includes application to help support the skin's natural healing process, an area where modern interest in the ingredient has grown considerably in recent years.
Why Dubai's Skincare Community Is Paying Attention
Frankincense sits at an interesting intersection for the UAE market specifically. It's deeply rooted in the region's own history and culture, giving it an authenticity that imported "trending" ingredients often lack, while also being genuinely well-supported by a growing body of research into its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. This combination, cultural relevance plus emerging scientific interest, is part of why more dermatologists and skincare formulators across the region are incorporating it into modern formulations rather than treating it as an outdated, purely traditional ingredient.
How Frankincense Is Best Used in Skincare
Frankincense is most commonly used in skincare as an essential oil, always properly diluted in a carrier oil rather than applied directly to skin, or as part of a resin-infused oil, where the resin is steeped in a carrier oil over time to extract its beneficial compounds more gently.
This second method, resin infusion, tends to produce a gentler, more skin-compatible result than essential oil extraction alone, since it avoids the higher concentration of certain volatile compounds that can be irritating to sensitive skin in essential oil form.
Frankincense in Al Iksir
Our signature serum, Al Iksir, incorporates frankincense specifically through a cold-infusion process rather than as a concentrated essential oil, allowing us to capture its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits in a form that's gentle enough for daily use, including on sensitive skin that might otherwise react to more concentrated essential oil formulations.
A Note on Sourcing
Given frankincense's history of overharvesting in some regions, sourcing matters considerably. We prioritize suppliers who follow sustainable harvesting practices, ensuring the Boswellia trees this ingredient depends on continue to be available for generations to come, not just for skincare, but for the cultural and traditional practices that have relied on this resin for thousands of years before it ever reached a serum bottle.